5275 Germantown Avenue • Philadelphia, PA 19144 215-438-4000
“Urban Grits” Makes for a Simple, Versatile Meal
By Daniel Jefferson and Pat O’Donnell
Editor’s note: This article begins a regular series presented by Chef Pat O’Donnell of The Urban Café, and Dan Jefferson, author of “Dining Out in Desperate Times, a Guide to Affordable Eating.” In these times of fiscal uncertainty good food can be a most comforting pastime. Many feel they cannot afford to eat out, but it is possible to prepare and serve extraordinary food at home. In this column, Chef Pat O’Donnell, of Germantown’s Urban Café, will provide tasty, nutritious recipes and practical cooking advice, so that one can prepare and serve gourmet meals with a pauper’s pocketbook right at home, with minimal effort. In addition, Chef Pat will answer any questions submitted about food and cooking.
Joys of cooking
My name is Pat O’Donnell, and I’m the chef at The Urban Café in Germantown, at 5815 Wayne Avenue. I’m writing to help people discover the joys of cooking and to answer any questions you might have about cooking.
Most people can remember a time in their life when food went along with good times. From holidays, to visiting a relative, and everything in between, we share food and the joy that comes from the creation of that special dish. Although I probably won’t be able to tell you how to make your favorite aunt’s dish, I may be able to help you with ingredients and technique.
In each column I’ll take time to highlight a recipe, so you might cook along. Hopefully some of the recipes you can add to your menu and enjoy with others. I’ll start each column with places where I shop for ingredients in and around the area, trying to focus on fresh and local. I’ll give tips on tools of the kitchen that can make cooking the dish easier and where to find them. You’ll be surprised how easily some dishes can be made with the right tools.
Preparations
The first thing I recommend you invest in is a good knife. Any chef will tell you the one thing you use more than anything is the knife. Knives come in every size and price range but for less than $30 you can get one that will do the job for you.
The most-used knife in any professional kitchen is the Chef’s knife. I recommend one that has a little weight to it, as these knives are much sturdier and can handle most jobs in the kitchen.
The second thing you want is a steel to keep the blade honed. Remember, a steel will never sharpen a dull blade. For that you need a sharpener.
The final thing to add is a cutting board. Try to go with a plastic one that is at least 24x24 inches, as this will give you plenty of room to work and it is easy to clean. You can find all these items for a decent price at Bed Bath and Beyond or Ikea, and they won’t kill you on the price. These three items will make your life in the kitchen much more pleasurable.
When starting a dish, the most important issue is fresh ingredients of good quality. The surrounding area has many spice shops, produce stands, and local farms and gardens, so please consider this prior to starting. Something as simple as a salad goes to a whole new level when you pick the produce from the vine.
The Wyck House at Germantown Avenue and Walnut Lane runs a farmers market in the summer on Fridays, and Weavers Way has a couple of locations where they sell produce they grow. Part of the fun to me is meeting the people who grow your food, and bragging about how you found it to others. The great thing is you support the local community. These organizations help us and are neighbors.
On to the good stuff. When I first came to the Café one of the first dishes I created was Urban Grits. I served it as appetizer, but since it has found its way to the breakfast menu. This dish is simple to make, and is quite versatile, as it can be served any time of day.
Since cooking is an art, like most chefs I don’t follow strict recipes. You learn to be guided by taste. The time of year can change what you’re making, so taste as you go, and learn to season a few times throughout the preparation of the dish.
Urban Grits
1 cup cooked grits (more or less)
5 shrimp
½ Jalapeno pepper
3 slices bacon
¼ cup shredded cheddar cheese
¼ cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons butter
Salt
Pepper
Start by preparing grits first according to directions on the package. I like to add salt to the water before starting and finish with a little butter when done. When done, set the grits aside.
Dice 3 slices of bacon and cook to almost brown and crispy. You can substitute turkey bacon if you like, but you’re going to have to add some oil to cook the jalapeno peppers.
Dice the peppers into small cubes (remember, the real heat comes from the seeds) and add to the bacon fat and cook for 30 seconds to release the flavor.
Add raw diced shrimp, stirring to cook evenly
Add heavy cream and bring to boil
Slowly add the grits and stir till it starts to absorb some cream
Toss in shredded cheddar cheese and cook till it comes together
Season with salt and pepper. Enjoy!
I hope you enjoy the dish, but if you’re not sure and want to try it, feel free to come to the Urban Café. Also, please feel free to write or e-mail me at The Urban Café, 5815 Wayne Avenue, Philadelphia PA, 19144, visit www.urbancafe581 .com, or email to newspaperrecipes@urbancafe5815/com.
Bon Appétit!
‘Short Ribs Over Potato Pancakes’ Tasty on the Grill
By Daniel Jefferson and Pat O’Donnell
Getting ready to grill
This is Chef Pat O’Donnell. I trust you enjoyed the first article and were able to cook and enjoy “Urban Grits.”
With warmer weather starting, we’ll soon start thinking about cranking up those grills. Among the joys of outdoor grilling are that it really cuts down on the cleanup and adds flavor to the food that you just can’t get inside. For a lot of us, the grill is something we might use every night of the week. With a couple of items that can be added to your pantry you can make a variety of dishes with the same main ingredient.
Fish, meat, and vegetables all do well on the grill, but what you put on them can make a huge difference. Some things to start looking for at the market to add to your pantry include spices, oils, salad dressings, marinades, and more. When I go to the market, I have a tendency to check the aisles to see if I can find something that might be on sale so I can expand my pantry. Don’t be afraid to buy a large size, as most of these items have a long shelf-life and will keep till the end of summer.
If you have been to the restaurant you can tell I’m a big fan of Cajun cooking. Most stores will carry a good Cajun spice and this is one of the easiest things to use on the grill.
A lot of the markets in the area carry a nice selection of fresh seafood such as catfish, tuna, and salmon. By just rubbing the spice on the fish and cooking it on a hot grill, you can have a great meal in no time.
Remember that fish takes no time to cook, so one of the techniques I use when cooking on a hot grill is the “three turn method.” After placing the fish on the grill, one of the things you want to look for is the sides of the fish starting to pull away from the grill. This will happen after two to three minutes; this is when you want to turn the fish.
I like to flip the fish over, then turn and rotate the fish 90 degrees on the second turn. If your grill is hot enough, this is how you get the checkered grill marks, unless of course your fish is covered with blackening seasoning. If you’re not blackening, you should use oil or marinade, brushing the fish each time, as it adds flavor and keeps it nice and moist. One more flip and you’re almost done.
Meats on the grill will take longer depending on what you’re cooking. One of the popular appetizers we do at the Café is boneless BBQ Short Ribs over Potato Pancakes. This dish is easy to make but takes some preparation to cook.
Short Ribs are a rather inexpensive cut of meat and if they’re not cooked right they can be quite tough. The secret is to slow cook them in the oven at a low temperature, until they melt like butter in your mouth. This might be something you can do ahead of time in quantity and freeze. When you’re ready to cook, you can defrost what you need in the morning, and cook quite quickly that night on the grill.
The most important thing when grilling is a hot, clean, seasoned grill. The easiest way to do this is to go to your local hardware store and buy a good wire brush, preferably one that’s not too stiff. Also, pick up some cheap white towels with which to season the grill. When you’re ready, start your grill with the lid closed, and let it heat for five minutes. Scrape the grill, getting off any particles you see. After you’re done, dip your towel in some olive oil and – using a pair of long tongs- rub the grill with a little oil until it shines. Now you’re ready to grill!
Like most chefs I don’t follow strict recipes as cooking is an art. You learn to be guided by taste. The time of year can change what you’re making, so taste as you go, and learn to season a few times throughout the preparation of the dish.
Short Ribs with Potato Pancakes
For the ribs you will need:
Boneless short ribs (the amount is up to you)
Your favorite BBQ Sauce
¼ cup espresso ground coffee (most markets will grind coffee for you)
¼ cup dark chili powder
2 tablespoons powdered cumin
2 tablespoons granulated garlic
2 tablespoons kosher salt
Mix together all dry ingredients.
Rub the ribs on both sides and place in a baking dish that will hold them.
Add enough water to cover the bottom of the pan about a half inch high.
Cover the pan with tin foil and cook in a 250 degree oven for 2-3 hours.
Here’s how you tell when they’re ready. Cut a piece on the end a little, and then try to pull it off. If it pulls easily, it’s done. Or you can just eat it to see if it’s done. That’s more fun.
Discard the grease and save just a little of the juice. Let ribs cool.
Starting at the big end, and working your way to the small end, cut the ribs about an inch thick and portion.
Now, if you made a lot, freeze some in individual bags.
When you’re ready to grill, place the ribs on the grill, and cook until they start to bubble.
Add the leftover juice to your BBQ sauce to thin a little and brush the ribs. The ribs should be ready when the sauce starts to cling to the ribs.
For the pancakes you will need:
1 Cup cold leftover mashed potatoes
2 egg yolks
Flour
Add egg yolks to mashed potatoes and stir.
Add a little flour at a time until it stiffens and stays together.
Form a cake about the size of a 50 cent piece and dust with flour.
Sautee cake on medium heat in melted butter until the cake is golden brown on both sides.
Serve the ribs over the cakes with a little extra BBQ sauce. Enjoy!
I hope you enjoy the dish, but if you’re not sure and want to try it, don’t hesitate to come to the Urban Café. Also, please feel free to write me at The Urban Café, 5815 Wayne Avenue, Philadelphia PA, 19144, or e-mail to newspaperrecipes@urbancafe5815.com. Bon Appetit!
This article is a part of a regular series presented by Chef Pat of The Urban Café, and Dan Jefferson, author of Dining Out in Desperate Times, a Guide to Affordable Eating.
By Daniel Jefferson and Pat O’Donnell
In these times of fiscal uncertainty, good food can be a comforting pastime. Many feel they cannot afford to eat out, but it is possible to prepare and serve extraordinary food at home. In this column, Chef Pat O’Donnell, of Germantown’s Urban Café, provides provide tasty, nutritious recipes and practical cooking advice, so that one can prepare and serve gourmet meals with a pauper’s pocketbook right at home, with minimal effort. In addition, Chef Pat will answer any questions submitted about food and cooking.
Many of you out there are starting your gardens, as I used to do back in my youth. Sadly, it seems that I’ve lost both my green thumb and the time to garden but in the surrounding area there are quite a few local gardens that are accessible. If you’re really daring, you can even participate in a community garden. If you do, you’re thinking about what you should grow besides the typical vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and herbs, which seem to be the easiest and everybody’s favorite. Another thing you might think about is berries. Fresh strawberries and raspberries make a wonderful addition to any main dish, salad, or dessert.
Chicken and fish go great with fruit, and making a sauce is both quick and simple. You can take strawberries and cook them with water and sugar until they soften and have the most basic of sauces. This is how chefs start a base for a sauce that can turn into as many as your imagination can devise. After cooking the strawberries, you can puree them, and add balsamic vinegar and oil to make a salad dressing. With the addition of your favorite cheese, vegetables, and grilled chicken, you can have a wonderful salad. The next day, you can take what’s left over of the dressing and turn it into marinade. Pick a fish that grills well, and remember to baste after every turn, and – well – you’ll have to try it to believe it. Top with some more berries and fresh basil to finish.
I know this can seem hard to do, but with the right tools in the kitchen, it can be a snap. You might think,” How do I puree the berries? What am I supposed to use for this?” There are a couple things you can use. Most of us have a blender sitting on the counter, and this will work just fine, but don’t forget to cool the berry sauce and use a lid.
If you’re willing to spend $25, you can buy a hand blender at most supermarkets and drugstores. This will save you time and cut down the mess you have to clean up, as you can puree the sauce right in the pot.
The other thing that I would recommend that you buy would be a hand mixer. You can get a good one for less than $15, and trust me, you’ll love it. You can use this to make fresh whipped cream, mashed potatoes, and more.
This week’s recipe is quite simple. Though it’s early for fruit you might grow, there is a tremendous selection now being offered at my favorite produce market, A&W House of Produce, at Harvey and Greene Streets (215-849-0161). Berries are going for less than $3 a container and they taste great. Also, the historic Wyck House, at Germantown Avenue and Walnut Lane has its own garden-grown strawberries available on Fridays, from 2-6 p.m., along with Amish Lancaster-grown fruit and berries.
Mixed Berries and Whipped Cream
At the Café, one of the popular desserts is mixed berries and cream. I was surprised that one of my younger waiters had never seen fresh whipped cream, thinking that it could only come from a can. So, here’s how we make fresh whipped cream and berries:
Ingredients include:
Your favorite berries
One pint of heavy cream
¼ cup sugar
Two tablespoons vanilla extract
Clean the berries, removing any stems, and wash with cold water.
In a large bowl, toss the berries with some sugar to coat them and set to the side.
Add the rest of the ingredients in a large bowl.
Using a hand mixer, beat the cream until you see stiff peaks.
The cream should be able to stand on its own. Be careful not to overbeat, as this will make butter.
Arrange the berries in a bowl and top with cream. Enjoy!
Like most chefs, I don’t follow strict recipes. Cooking is an art, so you learn to be guided by taste. The time of year can change what you’re making, so taste as you go, and learn to season a few times throughout the preparation of the dish.
This is our third article, and we’re hoping to get a little feedback from the readers. Please send your questions and comments to: newspaperrecipes@urbancafe5815.com, or The Urban Café, 5815 Wayne Avenue, Philadelphia, PA, 19144. Bon Appetit!
This article is part of a regular series that is presented by Chef Pat O’Donnell of The Urban Café, and Dan Jefferson, author of Dining Out in Desperate Times, a Guide to Affordable Eating.
By Daniel Jefferson and Pat O’Donnell
In these times of fiscal uncertainty, good food can be a comforting pastime. Many feel they cannot afford to eat out, but it is possible to prepare and serve extraordinary food at home. In this column, Chef Pat O’Donnell, of Germantown’s Urban Café, will provide tasty, nutritious recipes and practical cooking advice, so that one can prepare and serve gourmet meals with a pauper’s pocketbook right at home, with minimal effort. In addition, Chef Pat will answer any questions submitted about food and cooking.
I hope that everybody is enjoying their summer and I’m glad to see the huge response to these Reasonable Recipe articles. I received quite a bit of e-mail, and I’ve tried to answer as quickly as possible. I find it interesting to talk to so many people who are into cooking or who are just looking for tips.
It seems that we have a good amount of men out in the community who love to grill. The most asked question has been: “How do I keep things from getting charred?” I hope you’re now getting good results with “slow and low.” Most chefs will tell you to cook on a low fire for a long time when grilling bone-in chicken and meat, as this keeps it moist and tender without charring the skin or meat. The second most common mistake is adding the sauce too soon, as the sugar has a tendency to burn quickly. So leave this for the last 5 minutes and brush it more than once.
A lot of customers come into the restaurant and write later, requesting a recipe for their favorite dish. Unlike most chefs I’m more than happy to help, as I believe most people go out to eat for the joy of being out. So I don’t see it as giving away secrets. Besides, if you give 10 people the same recipe, it will probably end up tasting 10 different ways.
One such customer is Christy, from Roxborough, who tried the cornmeal-encrusted sea scallops with fresh Tomato Mandarin Orange Salsa, and decided to write for the recipe. In her e-mail she explained how she was having a party down at the shore and how she loves to stop on the way and get a basket of Jersey tomatoes at one of the local stands. Christy explained that she and her friends like to sit and drink Margaritas, and she thought that the salsa would be a hit with that drink.
My sous-chef Jarrod Oliver came up with the recipe, and as I was talking to him, my first cook, Lou Henninger, overheard us and got the idea to sell virgin Margaritas with small plates on Saturday and Sunday. So, the first week, we came up with six Southwestern appetizers, and offered them – your choice- at 3 for $15, plus virgin Margaritas for $8. I’m glad to say that my readers inspired my chefs. Thanks, Christy!
Salsa is quite easy to make, and with so many people growing tomatoes and buying Jersey tomatoes I thought this was a perfect recipe for this week’s article, as tomatoes and the shore are now starting to hit peak season. We’re finding lots of things with which the salsa goes well, so I hope you’ll try it and please put your own spin on it. I’ve already added it to Mexican spiced catfish, fish tacos, scallops, and egg and cheese quesadillas, and only imagination limits the possibilities. The salsa just seems to get better as the tomatoes marinate with the mandarin oranges, so don’t be afraid to make this one ahead of time to use a day or two later. When you’re having a party, you can pull it out and just add it to something simple, like scallops, and have more time for your friends.
This recipe calls for a blender, but it’s not a must. I recommend that you use a serrated knife to cut the tomatoes as the skin can be a little tough unless you have a really sharp knife. The easiest way to dice tomatoes is to cut six slices, then take half the tomato, and place the flat side down, round side up. Cut four or five times down through the slices, rotate ninety degrees, and do the same. Repeat with the other half, and remember to take your time so you don’t cut yourself.
I, like most chefs, don’t follow strict recipes. Cooking is an art, so you learn to be guided by taste. The time of year can change what you’re making, so taste as you go and learn to season a few times throughout the preparation of the Tomato Mandarin
Orange Salsa
You will need:
2 ripe tomatoes
1 red onion
1 jalapeno pepper
1 small can Mandarin oranges
Small bunch of cilantro
2 limes
Salt and pepper
When cutting a jalapeno pepper, most of the heat comes from the seeds, so if you like it hot, add the seeds; if not, remove them - and don’t forget to wash your hands when you’re done.
Instructions:
Dice the first 3 ingredients and set to the side.
Wash and dry cilantro.
Chop the cilantro.
Place the tomatoes, onion, and orange in a mixing bowl.
Slowly add the jalapenos, mix, and taste to judge the heat.
Add the cilantro slowly, and mix a little at a time, until it looks equal in proportion to the rest of the ingredients.
Add the juice of 2 limes, and salt and pepper to taste.
Take half the salsa, and pulse it in a blender, then add it back to the rest. This will give it texture, while still letting it help to mix the flavors.
Let the salsa sit for an hour in the refrigerator and taste.
This is when you can add more jalapeno, but you can’t take it out, so go easy. Enjoy!
If you don’t grow your own tomatoes or have a preference for the legendary Jersey-grown tomatoes, consider that truly, locally grown tomatoes are available at several venues here in the Northwestern Philadelphia area. Among these venues are Weaver’s Way Co-op, at the corner of Greene and Carpenter Streets, which offers not only tomatoes grown in the NW Philadelphia area, but also a variety of other herbs and produce grown – often organically- in these city precincts. Also, the historic Wyck House, at Germantown and Walnut Lane Streets, grows tomatoes and other herbs and produce which are offered for sale at that site on Fridays from 4 – 6 p.m. Since local production and sustainability is a paramount theme of this column it is important to be aware of and support these efforts, as the Urban Café itself does.
I hope you enjoy the dish, but if you’re not sure and want to try it, feel free to come to the Urban Café. Also, please feel free to write me at The Urban Café, 5815 Wayne Ave., Phila., PA, 19144, or newspaperrecipes@urbancafe5815.com .
Bon appetit!
This article is part of a regular series that is presented by Chef Pat of The Urban Café, and Dan Jefferson, author of “Dining Out in Desperate Times, a Guide to Affordable Eating.”
By Daniel Jefferson and Pat O’Donnell
In these times of fiscal uncertainty, good food can be a most comforting pastime. Many feel they cannot afford to eat out, but it is possible to prepare and serve extraordinary food at home. In this column, Chef Pat O’Donnell of Germantown’s Urban Café provides tasty, nutritious recipes and practical cooking advice so that one can prepare and serve gourmet meals with a pauper’s pocketbook right at home with minimal effort. In addition, Chef Pat will answer any questions submitted about food and cooking.
Hi! I hope that everybody enjoyed their summer, and I’ve been gratified at the response to these recipe articles. As we enter autumn we look forward to the bounty of the harvest, and the many recipes it evokes.
Now it’s time to talk about herbs and alcohol. Most people are very familiar with parsley, basil, and oregano as they are used in so many of our favorite Italian dishes, from pizza to spaghetti and meatballs. These are the herbs we take for granted. We’ve been eating them without any thought since we were kids.
But when you start to cook for a living, something that separates professional cookery from home cooking is the use of fresh herbs and alcohol. I remember the first day I started a job, and going into the kitchen and seeing bottles of various alcohols on the counter, and thinking to myself, “How do you know which one to use?” Five years later, I got a job in a cutting-edge restaurant and the chef told me to go down to the walk-in refrigerator and bring up a case of basil. I came back to inform him that we were out, but he assured me that we weren’t. The only fresh herb I had ever worked with was parsley, and that was for a garnish.
After he opened a case of fresh basil and showed it to me, it was the “kid at Christmas” feeling. He pulled down case after case of fresh herbs that I had never seen before. That was a long time ago and today, we take a lot of things for granted, as most supermarkets carry fresh herbs. Hopefully, I will sway you to start using herbs and alcohol to enhance your cooking.
The most-used alcohol in the kitchen is wine. We buy it by the jug and for less than $15 you can find something that will produce many a meal. My favorite is Carlo Rossi Chablis; this is a very mild-flavored wine but sparks a recipe and blends well with most herbs.
When cooking, the main ingredient should be the star of the plate. You want to slowly add layers of flavor to enhance your dish. The technique to using these extra ingredients is in adding them last to make your sauce.
I love cooking with fresh garlic and shallots, as these build the first layer of flavor. I use them in most sautéed dishes. When doing a pan sauce, you add these two ingredients first to release the flavor, and then your fresh herbs as they only need a second to cook. This is where the art of cooking comes in: you learn to add a little at a time, because you can always add more but never take something out. When you see the brightness of the herbs, add enough wine to deglaze the bottom of the pan as this will bring all the flavors together.
Today, we have a wealth of ingredients from which to choose, and some of the freshest are available locally. I hope you’re getting out there and using what’s available to you. In this season in the Northwest, fresh and locally grown herbs are available daily at Weaver’s Way Co-op, at Greene Street and Carpenter Lane; at Wyck at Germantown Avenue and Walnut Lane, on Fridays from 2-6 p.m.; and on Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. at Grumblethorpe on the 5200 block of Germantown Avenue. Supporting local, sustainable production is important, and a practice of the Urban Café. It takes much effort to grow all these wonderful foodstuffs, and to cook with them is the completion of the equation. Consider this analogy: “Cooking is to gardening as parenting is to birthing.”
Today’s recipe is one of the easiest to practice when learning these techniques: mussels with a white wine sauce. Most supermarkets stock mussels and the prices are fairly reasonable. When buying mussels, make sure they are closed tight as this indicates that they are alive and fresh. Think about visiting some local gardens to see if you can buy fresh garlic, shallots, basil, oregano, and parsley, as ingredients from the garden to the table give you the most flavors.
Like most chefs I don’t follow strict recipes. Cooking is an art and you learn to be guided by taste. The time of year can change what you’re making, so taste as you go, and learn to season a few times throughout the preparation of the dish.
Mussels with white wine sauce
You will need:
1 bag of mussels (about two dozen)
1 tablespoon chopped shallots
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 large pinch of parsley, basil, and oregano
1 large pinch of red pepper seed
White wine
Olive oil
Make sure to start with a hot pan coated with just a little olive oil. You also want to use a pan large enough to hold all the mussels and be able to cover them with a lid.
1.) Pour olive oil into pan to just cover the bottom, and heat.
2.) Remove pan from heat and add rinsed mussels. (Carefully, as the hot oil and water from the mussels will splatter. Try tilting the pan away from you as you add the mussels.)
3.) Return to heat and add garlic and shallots and stir.
4.) Add your herbs and stir.
5.) Slowly add the white wine till it is about a half inch high in the bottom of the pan.
6.) Cover the mussels and let cook for a minute then stir.
7.) Mussels are done when they open; this should take less then 2 or 3 minutes.
8.) If you like mussels red, you can use a little less wine, and add your favorite red sauce here and cook another minute.
9.) Serve the mussels in a bowl and top with some more chopped parsley. Enjoy!
I hope you enjoy the dish, but if you’re not sure and want to try it, feel free to come to the Urban Café. Also, please feel free to write me at The Urban Café, 5815 Wayne Ave., Philadelphia, PA, 19144, or e-mail to newspaperrecipes@urbancafe5815.com
Bon Appetit!
This article is part of a regular series that is presented by Chef Pat of the Urban Café, and Dan Jefferson, author of “Dining Out in Desperate Times, a Guide to Affordable Eating.”
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Reasonable Recipes
September 10, 2009
Recipes
Urban Grits
Short Ribs Over Potato Pancakes
Mixed Berries and Whipped Cream
Tomato Mandarin Orange Salsa
Mussels with White Wine Sauce
